Tips for Tanning Buckskin and Fur On Leather (without chemicals)

This is not a step by step instructional, but rather a bank of tips for someone with at least a few hides under their belt. Read through the whole list.

There are many primitive ways to accomplish the task of softening a hide. With the exception of a fur-on skin, hide is immensy forgiving and can only be completely destroyed by uncommon ammounts of rot (before tanned), burning from a carelessly strong lye solution or smoke heat and cut scoring as it’s removed from the animal. Mold will destroy the clean look and contaminate other hides once it is smoked so keep them away from plastic, air tight locations, and hang in the sun often. Store a hide in a well ventilated, sunny, dry location and use them.

ALWAYS dispose of the spent lye responsibily in a toilet or sink. !DO NOT! dump it into the environment. Scrape a lye soaked hide where it will not drip so other organisms drink it - you must be carful and repsonsible with the use of lye to be able to use it.

Buckskin and Smoked Moose:

- i use about a four foot poplar log, de barked, to scrape my hides. One end is wedged into a stationary object at the floor and the hide scrape end is resting on my thigh, pinching the hide with my side stomach.

- never scrape on a beam angled lower than 45 degrees. You want to be able to use your body weight (so you can really dig in for moose and) scrape. Use your back muscles, not your shoulders.

- you may want to try shredding or scraping out just the hair before you scrape the surface of the dermal layer for moose

- scrape the flesh side first and then the fur side, BEFORE you lye or ash dunk a deer skin; this saves lye chemical, you aren’t worried about chemical burn, and prevents contamination of the hair with the caustic chemical; this is also important so to respect to the critters that will be exposed to the discarded hair. It's not too much harder.

- scrape the flesh side first so the fur side is free of lumps when you scrape it; this way your tool won’t cut holes. Resoak often as the hide is less moble on the pole when it is dry'ish; so, it will fold over and stay there when you run your metal tool over it; this will create scores and holes all over your hide. 

- I usually cut off the hide - I dont want dirt getting on my meat - but one can also pound it off. Hold the skin taught and strike it with anything blunt and with heft.

- you must avoid scoring the hide if you use a sharp tool to remove the hide. The score may end up in a high use area like a knee cap or shoe sole and weaken that area significantly.

-  if the hide becomes green for any reason its often the case that the area cant be saved.

- if scraping over a beam, keep the area to scape up close and near you; working on a moose hide, it's best to be able to put body weight into the push.

- there are two methods of wringing a hide. This first is more appropriate for a deer hide tanned whole. Place one edge over the beam, then the opposite edge flap up and cover over the edge on the beam. Roll one side to the middle then the other to meet. There should be a loose doughnut of a hide around the beam. Put a stick through the loop and twist. The second method is used for small hides, like moose quarters, but can be used with any hide. Make slits linear with the edge, close to the edge, all around the edge about an inch long and three inches apart. Use a stationary rod of some sort and weave four or so holes into the sationary rod and then through four on the opposite side, weave a rod you can twist. Twist left then right, pull stretch, and then change holes and repeat the twist left then right and so on until the whole hide has been wrung.

- you should strongly consider splitting or quartering a moose hide for tanning. Dry the other peices to store by hanging in a breezy dry place. You will also be more inclined to use finished pieces for projects when the hide is not finnished whole.

- if you are in the field, you want to soften a skin without sewing to smoke it and a vessel is not available. Rub a thick softening solution into the surface of the hide and allow it some time to soak in; then, manipulate it over a smoky fire while it dries. You must push something poky into the tougher spots to really tear the fibers apart. You will feel the stiffnes in these parts like the spine, and rumps. Plan to smoke the hide thoroughly once dry. 

- use large vessels for your wet buck step. Tighter vessels inhibit expansion and fluid mobility. 

- this is the MOST critical step to finish with a stretchy deer hide: because the bonds that hold the collagen fibers together are so vulnerable when it is puckered, take the whole hide and  thoroughly re scrape, back and front, when the hide is PUCKERED, half way to being ready for the thorough water rinse (even though the hair is already gone).  Do this scrapping in a shower stall. The stretching, will thoroughly obliterate the connecting mucus bonds and make softening a breeze. The hide will be slippery on a short beam so rinse the hide under water, then use a cotton rag bettwen your body and the hide as suggested by Matt Richards in his tanning book. Add an additional rag between the log and the lye soaked hide. If lye crystals in stead of ash was used, this scraping step !MUST! be done were the liquid and hide debris will not harm other organisms - use a shower stall. At this point, the lye should be so diluted, a brief scrape session should not affect your own skin should you choose to do this naked. A well scraped hide, ready for a full rinse, will have vastly more stretch than a soaked raw skin; it will also look more translucent. If you do this well, you will have a much easer time during the drying/stretching step. You can somewhat take your time while hand drying later. For very thick hides, after you have scraped the hide in a shower stall, you can throw it back into the lye to soak for a few more days and then repeat the scrape process. You can repeat this step as many times as you wish, but with deer hides, only one scrape in the puckered state is sufficient.

- you will know the hide has had a thorough  lye soak as the hide will be tacky, and far more loose than before. 

- rinsing is important as the loose "slime"  still has a glue like quality when dry and will still give the hide a rough feel when fully hand dried.

- I dont use the brain or other fat soluble animal parts to soften the hide. I use home made soap and vegetable oil. Air on the side of more oil to soap as too much soap will prevent the oil from locking on fibers. The hide will end up feeling dry. I dont use soy lethicins, other emulsifiers, or eggs. On a side note, when  our predecessors had an alternative to the brain they  would have used it. The brain, spinel fat, and marrow are far too nutritious and should be eaten rather than just sloshed into a hide. Know if the creatures in that area could be sick; there is a chance of bacterial or disease causing infection that can be transfered 

- Only wringing the hide (whithout smoke), multiple times to break up the fibers, WILL NOT WORK FOR MOOSE, - the hide will  require multiple smoking and wringing, and no base dunk. I have used nearly twenty tea spoons of lye, added slowly to not burn the moose hide, to pucker it. I scraped it again, and the hide still,after softening and drying came out stiff as though no lye was used at all. Don't bother with lye or ash for moose. Smoke rebrain, dry, repeat  until soft. Dont try and base dunk a moose hide - it is not worth the resources.

- Smoking locks in work already done. Smoking may be time consuming work, but for the amount of work you have already invested it is worth it. In addition, a redunk will distribute the color throughout the hide.

- non framed hides come out denser and smaller. You may find a moose hide that was not framed will be far too dense to be used for clothing.

- I hand soften the moose hides I have made; I did not stretch them into a frame while drying (or at any point). I achieved this by throwing it over a long beam and pushing a tool into the whole surface in various directions and pulling in various directions, not unlike the physical treatment a frame drying method would provide; as mentioned in previous points, the attempts to work the surface were not done on an on going basis until dry, as one would work a deer skin. The log helps hold the hide open and dry. Moose takes a long time to dry - environment depending. Don’t work moose hide until it dries. Only make sure the moose hide dries as big as it can be, smoke it then repeat - soak, wring, dry, smoke.

- a thick, un-smoked, cow moose can take as much as five or more days to dry, indoors in a 1c garage. Over night you can roll it up and put the hide in a dry ducket with a cover; lay a damp, clean cloth over the hide or just leave it. If its warm put the bucket containg the hide in as cold a location you can find - fridge, outdoors. You may want to avoid freezing the hide as the expansion of water molecules damages the collagen fibers.

- wring and rinse a just-lyed-skin as many times as your attention will allow prior to the brain or softening agent soak and wring stage for wet buck method. It is easer to further break the fibers up and  clean out mucus on the twist doughnut while the skin is tacky and oil free than than when brain or soap/oil combination is in it. 

- wring rump to neck and also side to side, any angle would not hurt. The aim is to put a destructive amount of stretch, from random directions  into ever collagen fiber that makes up the hide surface (particularly the neck area), repeatedly. Turn over the soggy bulges into the squeeze so they get stretched. Fold in the loose tags. Turn the wring stick clockwise, then counter. Rotate the loop a few degrees. 

- the shape of a deer hide is not rectangular so in order to stretch the neck, stretch the hide wide and fold in half. Place the hide on your horizontal beam so that one sides legs are over the beam and the neck pointing to the rump end. Lay the two other dangling legged side of the hide over and onto the legs already clinging/sitting on the beam. Roll your doughnut and twist. You will have to replace the neck as the hide is curled. Do this one after the hide has been stretched and free of most moisture.

- Be conservative with softening solutions. Using more is not always better as you may just make an oily hide. As long as there is a creamy color in the water it has something to offer the hide on subsequent hide soaks.

- when wringing make the donut, twist slowly if you have too. Slowly twisting will allow liquid to slowly drip out. The hide will eventually catch on itself and lock so it wont slip apart resulting in the donut needing to be refolded; this works on the slipperiest of hides only having to twist slower - initially.

- pre stretch a hole before stiching and avoid stitching large cuts and big holes with sinew (or thread) when the hide is moist just prior to the drying manipulation. Sinew and thread resists stretching; use a ribbon of the hide for stitching. After the hide has been stretched and dried it will have reached a semblance of fabric for stitching with sinew if desired. 

- dont bother to stich small holes, just be cautious with skinning and scraping next time

- when hand drying, if you are just pulling the hide from side to side, the hide will have areas that feel soft on the outside but are stiff, “feel flat”, just wont soften or may feel soft on the outside but fold a little like rawhide; this is the case for the length of the spine and thick areas like rumps and neck so you must push a tool or post into it. The core fibers are not broken apart, so break up that hide with a poky edge. When nearing the end of the drying process AND after fully dry, at any time, but BEFORE stitching to smoke, strech the whole hide by really reafing the hide over a poke tool, stretching it and making it as billowy as possible. Any non billowy, flat feeling or stiff spot especially, work over a beam until it becomes fluffy and spandex stretchy like the pit areas of the hide; this will ensure the whole hide is ready to breath in the smoke to coat and lock loose all the core fibers; this type of hide will also be much warmer to wear. 

-  lye solution should be disposed of responsibly (toilet)

Fur On:

- There are two objectives once the hide is off - stretch and dry. Stretch the hide, just so it wont shrink or miss shape and dry, so that the hair wont begin to slip; these can be accomplished by using a frame, tacking,  or laying it on the concrete or over logs and periodically going over it and opening  it. The flesh and fat MUST be removed (especially for fatty animals like bear, beaver, and porcupine) before the fur on hide is left to dry or the areas where these are left will take longer to dry and the hair will slip. So throw it over a beam and get that done. The hide should be fleshed fully too at this point. Damp, curling spots left as such will also slip so keep them open. Dont worry about degreasing the fur or getting dirt off, or having it soft just yet.

- There is no need to continuously stretch and work the hide as it goes from damp to dry with hair on (or for a thick furless skin either). For example with a deer fur on you can probably get away with 5 full hide stretch/pipe tip work sessions a day untill dry; these times are weather and environment dependent. A thin hide, like hare, I wouldnt touch for a few hours after skinning; simply lay it flat, un tacked, and wait. Once the hide becomes dry enough to hold its shape, you can leave it if you want and work it with a pokeie tool when ready.

- when working a hair on hide, some hides just won't come out soft as easily as others as they are just too thick. You have to work them more to make them flexible and soft. I havent done so myself,  but it would not hurt to rub some oil into the flesh side before working it.

- one way to work a hide is to find a clean floor and lay it fur down. The area to be worked should have a quarter folded towel or even another hide to add loft of the work area. Pin the hide with your knee and push a shap but dull tool into the hide in a forward working motion. Be carful as you WILL tear thin areas. The benifit of this method is that it keeps the dander down.

- another method is to just work the hide over a sharp 2/4, like the one shown above.

- small holes should be left alone, tears, must be sewn. ALWAYS dampen an area to be sewn to a soak before using sinew to sew it. This border will then dry strong and will resist the stiches tearing later. 

Grain On

- to make a grain on hide, scrape flesh side with hair on, lye soak, pluck hairs, dispose of hair in biobin, twist and treat as a buckskin.

- if smoking with the grain on, be prepared for a long smoke session, or several. When or were the grain layer is left on, the smoke takes a long time to "color" that spot. If the material is breathable, the smoke will make that area dark rapidly; if not, it seems to just want to bounce off; this also explains why a long smoke session with a hair on, will still leave a light smoke - the smoke is gliding over the surface, as opposed to penetrating through it.

Smoking:

- when smoking together, the hides do not need to be the same size or lined up but it's helpful.

- use a long smoke skirt at the opening of the smoke sack to avoid scorching inside the hide

- to connect a deer hide for smoking an option is pitch glue. Pitch glue is quick to apply and will maintain a tight seal. This glue is also relatively easy to make in the field. Dab, a line across the rim about 2" long and then push together while the glue is still hot. Resist the urge to "draw" the glue across the rim; this makes a line with inconsistent strength and can create lumps of glue on your glue line. I use a oil lamp setup to heat the glue and dab.

- punch sew holes in a moose hide with a bone or metal awl and mallet, then sew with cord. 

- a tighter seal, with fewer holes and places for smoke to escape, creates a more even smoke color on the hide and shorten smoke sessions 

- work the edge, then cut away remaining stiff border of your deer hide before sewing. This will make a tighter seal and thus a better smoke job. 

- a preferred method of sewing the sacks of deer is to have delegated long buckskin thongs and using only an awl to punch the hole. Having a long fine taper on the end of the thong makes it easy to poke through the hole punched by the awl. Pinch the hides tightly and poke a hole just forward of the pinch. Hold the two hides together tightly while sliding the thong through. You can also push the tip of the thong through with the awl tip as a second option but this can take longer. A preferred method is to vice an awl so you can push the two layers of hide into the tip and make the sew hole.

- I have used pine lumber, dry (barkless) dead standing or hanging branches, dead spruce branches, dead tree bark, green plant with a hot smoulder, anything of a small enough size that will fit in my smoke pot. Dont use punk that has been sitting in a bucket for long time and material which harbours other organisms.

- spruce and pine have a resin that smokes from the wood; the hides that are smoked with these woods tend to finnish stiffer and rougher, "clammeier", however they are probably better at resisting water and mildew

- sew holes with either the same hide made of a thong or sinew. Big holes or cut gashes sew only with hide thong. Sew just before working dry.

- you can comb out rough fuzz when dried, just before the skin is ready to smoke with a light but sharp wood rasp. You can also use a rasp to lighten burnt spots post smoke. I saw a wood handle with a can wrapped around it in a native camp once. The can had nail holes punched through so the protruding metal was poking out ward; this tool is used to abraide a skin surface 

- get dynamic when smoking. Move the sack around gently, exposing the folded tight spots to the smoke within. Push the odd sags in now and then.

- (never tried this myself) use the hair (from a bucking job) for an archery target stuff sack. Better for the environment than chemical coated cotton or plastic/polyester fibers/rags; god help you and us if you used that shit.

Sometimes you may want a needle for sinew. Fold an iron wire into a U and pull the iron cord ends through the hole with pliers. Prepunching the whole with an awl is necessary. Often a good glovers needle or any needle with a large hole is best to have on hand.

- I use a 6L stainless steel pot and lid while smoking. The skirt must fit around the pot with the lid of the pot left a-jar. The opening may vary, to regulate what go in and out of the smoulder. The lid greatly, but not fully, protects from flair ups and heat which may burn the skirt inside. Watch for heat transfered from the side of the pot to your skirt; I've still had hides lost to fire with the pot. The nicest feature about this pot approach is the thorough to complete combustion that one can achieve of the smoke material. Poke and break up with a stick and then lay new material on the hot pile.Try not to mix new with old as this will likely put out your coals. My lid has a number of holes drilled into it; they are not necessary; it was used for something else that has become obsolete.

Right to left: Bone awl, Deer awl, Moose awl. The bone awl works well on the thickest and toughest moose hide when used with taps from a light mallet; just make sure the tip is sharp and the shaft, a slow taper; it seems to slide through hide better than steel. The metal nail awl is great for pre punching sewing holes in the rawhide rims of the "softened" moose hide to create the smoke sack.

A huge part of the challenge of making smoked moose hide is knowing how to accomplish the task efficiently, which I am currently of the mind, is not something you can teach. I've use this method to work a moose hide. Using this method, the most difficult feature is lifting and maneuvering the whole thing which is not attached to the saw horses. If you learn quickly, you dont really need much pulling force at any point to find ways of puting a huge amount of torque into the hide. Be CAREFUL using this method requires the moving of heavy loggs, carful balance, while being able to attend to the threat of the logs swinging back in your face or feet and hands being pinched. The logs are taken off the horses and leverage is found using your weight, gravity, and the floor in X's - it can get dangerous and at times is rough on the horses. You may want to use a smaller bucket to catch the liquid or even a lid and drain back into a larger vessel. DO NOT USE THIS METHOD IF YOU ARE UNCOMFORTABLE WITH THE DANGERS INVOLVED AND THE DAMAGE IT MAY CAUSE TO YOUR SAW HORSES. There are other ways.

The reward of doing something is never only the final product; in part, its an efficiency with which the task may be done the next time, a deep understanding of the tasks and materials - lessons which can not be taught without being earned. Only when you have earned this deep understanding will you make it look easy.