It's a quick tab for a mediterranean draw. Covers the middle and ring finger but an index finger may be added. Made from buckskin.
The border is also not perfectly trim - but it's a "quick tab".
When I aim, I look at the mark and focus. Part of my consiousnes then transfers to my hands that are aware of the bow and shaft placed there on. I feel, with my fingers on the knock end, the angle of placement relative to the string, trying best to reach 90 degrees before I draw.
In the periffery of my eyes I look at the trajectory of the arrow as it is drawn. Aware of my hands and where they are placing the shaft in the volume of my surroundings, but still, I think to make the shaft "aimed" at the target before the string is loose. I have no anchor point with my string hand. Once I have given myself enough time to make the shaft aimed at full draw, I loose. Don't attempt to correct the trajectory of the shaft once the string is released, this will only fire an untrue shaft and reinforce bad habbits with aiming for the long run. With your bow arm bent, focus on spurring the chosen tragectory of the arrow. If it's a miss, try again and again. One day you will appreciate how much your hand and eye have become confluent. Only in time, all sensory input will become seemingly less and less consiouse and a strike will be "instincual".
Remember, you are not aiming a line of tention from your draw hand to the stave - you are aiming a shaft between.
For years I have used a brass, fixed knock bead that indicates where the knock on my arrow must sit on the string. It was not until the day that it disappeared and I continued with the practice session, that I started to use the bow. The focus and understanding of the tools, an arrow and bow, increased heavily. I judge the power of the string to launch the shaft at my target.
Your bow arm should be strengthened and practiced to make flowing and accurate "lobs" of the wood shaft. Flowing but accurate pushes - with a "full" draw.
When you think about it, the arrow is like a small spear; as such, it's the task of the lancer to know the dynamics required to have an effective cast. War archers would have picked up enimy arrows and fired them back, so accuracy, despite weight or fletching, must be the responsibility of the dynamic archer.
The arrow must be straight. In order for the string to transfer the force to the tip of the arrow the wood must be true. If it's not, the power of your bow will exploit the wave and the arrow will fly off course.
A weak and thinned wood ("under spined"), may hold streight, but it can only push so much weight for a tip while making up for the inevitable imperfections of an archers cast and shaft manufacture. Should the tip outweigh the integrity of the shaft, the arrow will wobble and fly untrue out of the bow, and therefore inaccurately.
You should try to start with a straight pice of wood as though a bent pice of wood may be made straight, it will soon want to revert to it's original crooked form; I find this to be the case with elm, though this is an otherwise strong wood.
Pine is a brittle soft wood, quite weak and is thus less able to take the heavy hits of practice during winter on a frozen hill with iron, fast stop tips; though this may only be the case with over thinned shafts. Wrapping a consistent, tight strand of glue covered sinew 5 or so inches down shaft starting from the tip can somewhat reinforce the shaft.
Rough staves, which are shaved fatter than the width of your typical bought, already finished shaft diameters are great as you can make extra broad knocks, and play with tips; advantages lost on pre cut staves. These arrows can also be over spined or just strong enough and I would ehr on the side of a slightly over spined shaft that has a higher chance of hitting and holding true than an underspined shaft that can't take the minor imperfections of a cast.
Also, heavy, weight wise shafts (and tips) will have a deeper penitration.
It is wise to have consistent wood among your immediate shafts. Hard wood will dive sooner than light soft woods resulting in unpredictable shaft trajectory, exasperated at distance.
A heavy spine is important when shooting on the outside of the stave and even more so when the spur is added. You will know how to shoot for a spurred shaft to consistently and confidently hit true.
The power point is the point on your string that sits directly in the knock of the shaft. Train to know and control this point. Knowing your power point will allow you to knock without looking. To control the activity of the power point will make the bow seem part of you and this will help eliminate "the bow" so it's you who is driving the energy into the wood shaft or "small lance". Control the power point to fling the shaft true with the strength of your wrist, arm, and the power provided by the limbs. Once you have a feel of contol for the power point, aim your lance and cast with your strength.
I haven't made feather sticks. I also don't often make huge roaring fires. To make my fires which are small tools to heat a kettle of water or render, I look for barkless (as these are often dry through and don't harbour insect homes), dry dead sticks about the width of two thumbs. Thinner burns easley but faster, and therefore needs to be fed sooner; wider, the opposite, burns slower, needs to be fed less, but will not catch as quick.
To process the wood into the desired finger long sticks, put the stick, where you want to make the break, over the round of a hard dead log or rock, and with another big stick, strike just forward of the contact point to crack up the kindle stick; doing this, will save pant knees and shirts from developing rip holes.
You will quickly end up with a pile of finger sized wood fuel from a collection of surrounding dead standing or poplar dead wood.
|Beyond this adapter by FoodSaver, there are other methods to suction seal a mason jar, such as special canisters and large vacuum sealing machines. On that note, the hose that attaches the machine to the suction lid above broke at the plastic connection. The break was convieneant as after having cut off the broken end I found I could simply put the plastic hose over the hole in the tool shown above and I seems to suction the 250ml jars even better. The close lach on my machine gets used less as when the vacuum finishes I just remove the hose to release the suction to the jar and then suction a new jar.|