The Easiest Way to Tan Moose Hide.

Cut the hide into quarters or a half unless you absolutely need or want a whole hide. Its easer to work, maneuver, store and you're going to cut it for projects anyway. 

All the hide must be scraped or the parts not to be tanned (or to be eaten) should be cut away and discarded at this point. 

Scrape the fur side first, then the flesh side (the opposite order of deer skin).

Fully scraped hide can be hung and dried for a time when they are ready to be used. 

Dunk the hide into a solution of soap, vegetable oils and water. You can throw the hide into water and then add oil and grated soap. Mix.

Slosh periodically and allow to soak for two or three days. 

Slits must be cut an inch long, an inch apart, quarter inch from the edge, all around, parallel to the border; the idea is to make these slits quite robust as they will be under quite a bit of strain; they will be used to weave a rod or some other strong stationary beam or cable through four to six holes on one side and another rod on the opposite side woven in the same way; these rods to will be used to twist the hide and stretch it; the purpose is to eventually break up the collegian fibers across the whole surface.  You work your way around the whole piece so all the holes have been used. Twist left then right. Focus more on the pulling and stretching and then the twisting, in stead of just twisting.

When damp dry, begin the dry stretch process by working the hide in all directions, stretching by hand and over a pointy beam (this is important). Run the hide on the poky object one direction, then pull it open the opposite. The more thorough and heavily the hide is worked during these work sessions the sooner your hides will soften.



Work the hide, then let it sit to dry, then in a few hours, work it again. It is critical, that you work moose and hair on hides passively (environment depending). You will use too much energy working a damp hide that simply needs time to let dry.

Do not worry - it will (regardless the work) mostly dry stiff and DO stop when it stiffens. Only make sure that the piece dries as stretched open as possible. If the hide is allowed to shrink or is not stretched in some locations, the smoke will later glue fibers together and when the hide is twisted again, the fibers will tear out of place and the dried hide will look “tinselie” with a smattering of clumps of fibers on the surface.

When the hide is dried, just get smoke into/onto the hide. Use a towel or other rags to quickly seal or cover means for smoke to escape. 

The hide(s) will likely be so stiff the first time smoking, you may want to do something like slide the pieces under a supported cotton blanket, smoke pot located in the center, to make a sort of smoke tent, which will put the initial color on. Don't worry about an even color as later soaking will even out the coloring. Keep a keen eye on this set up, as you don't want anything catching fire. Use a pot with a lid a jar to protect from scorching. 



When dry, slam both sides of the leather with sun for a few hours as a counter measure for molds.

After the first smoke, repeat the whole process from the dunk in softening solution step, until the hide and fibers are fully covered in smoke color, oils, and is as flexible as you can accept. You wont need to pay attention to stretching the hide as open as possible during the drying process after the first smoking of the surface. 

Also, after the hide has been smoked once and is soaking in the softening solution for three days, it is important that you wring it mid way to break up fibers; then let it finish the soak duration.

Expect this to take at least four whole cycles. 

After the hide has reached the final drying cycle, and is now ready for the last smoking, cut away the holes on the border and use a heavy awl (which you may need to mallet) to make holes and create a really tight seal for the final smoking sack; this is not necessary, but you really want a thorough smoking on the final smoke; one which penetrates deep into the hide and can only be achieved with a tight seal.

If the hide is left whole  the process is the same.

Hides are really that simple. Only wood-smoke-fiber-locking-effect and  proper stretching - these are the keys. No lye or ash. No lemons or soy lecithin. No brain. Just oil, soap, smoke, and experience.