Reloading for a Lead Free Shot - my home made tools method (no die)

 WARNING: I am not a reloading or firearm expert. The materials used in the following tutorial are extremely dangerous. Use sense and inhibitions. Read and understand the full tutorial if you want to attempt to follow it.

I have always shot lead free 100% copper projectiles. It's the best for our environment, and best for your health, but near all primers used in over the counter, ready made ammunition  is made with around 35% lead styphnate and this gets scattered into the air on firing.  

To reload the primer I use only two handmade special tools; other equipment used in the process is usually found around the a house or may be substituted. 

This makes ammunition that is "corrosive" to both the iron and brass components of your firing system but your shot will be entirely lead free and now there is justification to be a meticulous cleaner of the rifle. 

I have seen a metal bolt nut used in place of the wood chunk. The screw has been ground down at the tip to fit into the flash hole.

A vice and some locking pliers; these and a spoon with some papper is all you need to reload a bullet and remove the lead primer to replace it with the strike anywhere mach powder and striker strip. Other tools may include a measure and scoop to pour new powder, and a die for your brass but this article will not involve that level of loading.

First, remove the 100% copper projectile from the loaded bullet - carefully! Clamp securely the projectile only - not the brass. Some teath marks are fine; you can lightly file or sand the marks away later. Twist back and forth and up or away from the brass, slowly, untill the copper starts to slide out.

Carefully empty and store the gun powder in a clean place like a glass bowl or small mason jar. 

Use the modified screw with the tip placed on the inside of the flash hole, to slowly, push the spent or unused primer cap from the brass case. Ensure the primer is centered over the hole in you wood piece. Use the iron vice as a safety shield in some manner.

If the brass is dirty it must now be cleaned well.

Remove the anvil in the primer cup and clean the spent primer powder or carefully clean out the un spent lead based primer powder. Dispose of the lead primer powder responsibly and wash your hands and tools.

If the primer cup has a firing pin dimple, the dimple must be pushed back out and the surface flushed up. This can be done with any flat object that will fit into the cup and lightly hammer.

Prepare the new primer powder with three strike anywhere matches; you can use a spoon and paper to help you do this. Remover the compound at the tips by pinning and rolling the tips between a hard surface and the spoon. You want to remove only the compound and not the match stick. The flakes must then be crushed and mixed into a fine powder; the spoon is all that is required for this. In addition to the match tip, scrape some of the strike surface material into the mix; this helps to ensure  an ignition when the primer hits the cap. Save any striker strip that is not used when throwing out match boxes.

Once the powder is ready, load and pack the primer cup and replace the anvil. You will want to put a touch of paper towel over the filled cap and under the replaced anvil. It’s fine if the paper is bigger than the diameter of the cap; it will be torn away. Put the brass case primer pocket over the upturned filled cup and push it as far as you can - SLOWLY - untill it just sits. 

Use the vice and wood block to slowly, fully seat the filled primer in the brass case pocket. The back of the primer must be flush with the back of the brass.

DANGER. Refill the case with powder. Reseat the projectile, then use your vice to slowly push the projectile into the brass untill fully seated. I dont know how this would be done if your vice is mounted to a table as the bullet must be loaded upright NOT on its side. 

You will need a die of the right caliber to reseat the projectile if the case has been fired; the shell must be re crimped to hold the projectile securely on expanded brass; however, I can see how you may get by finding a steel cone, puting it over the open rim and lightly tapping a tighter perimeter.